In the last post we showed you how to take your own measurements, trace your pattern, choose your fabric and cut the pattern out. Today we're going to get started with sewing!
The fabric I'm using for my dress is a mid weight cotton with a little elastane.
Remember there is a 5/8inch (approx 1.5cm) seam allowance throughout this pattern.
THE BODICE
Once you have all your pattern pieces cut out make sure to transfer all notches and other marks from the pattern to your fabric. The next step is to overlock the edges of all the pieces if you have an overlocker.
Staystitch along the curved edge of each bodice side front and all the edges of the bodice front. This stops the edges from stretching out of shape when sewing them together.
Staystitch the top edges of the facings then fuse the wrong sides.
On the bodice front mark the darts on the wrong side of the fabric. I do this by making a small hole and marking with tailors chalk through the hole. You could also sew tailors tacks which are loose looped stitches in a contrasting thread.
Fold the bosice right sides together matching the notches on the seam and the point mark and draw a line with chalk.
Sew from the side seam to the point. A trick I learned is to move the needle over to the excess dart fabric and do a few stitches forward and back to secure the thread. Otherwise you could tie the ends together.
Press the darts downwards.
Pin the side front bodice and bodice front right sides together matching the notches along the seam.
Finish the seams with an overlocker, a zig-zag stitch or pinking shears. Press the seam towards the side bodice.
Repeat the process with the other side.
Assemble the back bodice by stitching the side back pieces to thebodice back. Finish the seams as above or press open.
Pin the back bodice pieces to the front bodice at the side seams. Sew and finish the seams as above and press towards the back.
ATTACHING THE POCKETS
Mark where your pockets should go on your skirt pieces with tailors chalk.
Postition your front pocket pieces right sides together with the skirt front then stitch in place. I like to use a contrasting fabric here, it adds a little fun!
Press the pocket pieces away from the skirt then stitch close to the edge through the pocket piece and the seams. This isn't necessary but it does help to prevent the pocket from rolling outwards to the outside of the dress.
Pin your back skirt pieces to the front skirt and sew the seam, pivoting at the top of the pocket to sew around the pocket pieces as shown.
Do the same at the bottom of the pocket and continue down the the hem.
This is how it will look when you're done. Do the same with the other side. You could finish the edges of the pocket seam here to reduce bulk.
Press the skirt seam towards the front and you will have beautiful inseam pockets!
Next week we will finish off the dress which includes
-attaching the skirt to the bodice
-sewing in the invisible zip
-adding the straps and facing
-and finishing the hem.
If you haven't got yourself a copy of the pattern yet pop on over to Stitch 56 and type in the code "HANDMAKERS" to receive a 5% discount. We also have a workshop over 2 evenings coming up if you'd like some help with sewing your own Hazel dress.
Happy Sewing!
