Let's finish our Hazel dresses! Today we will be attaching the skirt to the bodice, sewing in the zip, attaching the facing and hemming the skirt.
Remember there is a 5/8inch (approx 1.5cm) seam allowance throughout this pattern.
If you haven't got yourself a copy of the pattern yet pop on over to Stitch 56 and type in the code "HANDMAKERS" to receive a 5% discount.
Using the widest stitch on your machine sew three rows close together within the seam allowance across the top of your skirt. Do not stitch back at either end and leave long tails of thread.
Evenly gather your skirt and attach it to the bodice matching seams as you go. Press the seam towards the bodice.
Sew together the shoulder straps and grade the seams to omit bulk. Turn right side out and press. Do the same with the other.
Pin your shoulder straps in place on the front and back of the bodice matching them up with the notches you made when cutting out. Baste in place.
To insert the invisible zip you will need an invisible zipper foot for your machine. I'm using one that can fit many machines and can be bought at your local haberdashery store for a few dollars. You can buy metal feet to fit your machine at sewing centres.
Before sewing in your zip press the coil of the zip outwards with an iron. Place the coil in the groove of the foot making sure it is pushed out and away from the fabric of the zip.
Your needle will be in the centre of the foot and as you sew the stitches will catch just to the side of the coil. Do the same with the other side making sure the waist seams meets.
(I was out of red invisible zips so used what I had instead)
Sew up the rest of the seam to the bottom of the zip. It can be a little tricky to sew that last little bit, just take your time.
Next, attach the facing to the bodice and sew in place.
Using a regular zipper foot sew down the sides of the facing making sure to catch the zip fabric.
Trim the corners, turn out and press. Understitch the facing (like we did with the pockets) to prevent it from rolling out. Fold to the inside of the dress and press in place.
Fold up the hem twice and press. Stitch along the edge with a sewing machine or you could hand stitch in place to avoid stitching on the right side.