Handmaker's Factory

Index Card Tutorial - Blind Hem

Learning how to do a blind hem is a great skill-builder, and makes your garments look more professional and couture. They take a little bit of practice to get right, but with this tutorial you'll be finishing all your garments with blind hems in no time!
 

MADE-Tutorial---Blind-Hem

 
Instructions:
 
Step 1: Finish the raw edge of your hem using a zig-zag stitch or serger. Fold the hem up the desired length and press.
 
Step 2: This is the origami part of the tutorial: take the folded edge and fold it under the garment, towards the right side. Leave about 1/4" of the finished edge sticking out from under the fold you just made.
 
Step 3: From the wrong side, you should now be able to see a folded edge, and 1/4" of the top of the hemp peaking out from underneath the fold. press.
 
Step 4: Now, find your machine's blend hem stitch. The stitch is composed of both zig-zag stitches and straight stitches.
 
Step 5: Position your folded hem in your machine so that only the very point of the zig-zag stitch falls on the folded edge on the left. The straight stitches should fall only on the single layer on the right. 
 
Step 6: Stitch the hem using the blind hem stitch so that only the very point of the zig-zag stitch catches the folded edge, and the straight stitches remain on the single edge on the right. Be careful: sew too close to the folded edge and your seam will not open all the way; sew too far from the folded edge and your zig-zag stitches will not catch the folded edge. This takes some practice, and is what can make the blind hem a bit tricky.
 
Step 7: turning the garment to the right side, unfold the second fold. You should only see little tick marks of stitching on the right side (the tips of the zig-zag stitches). If using a matching thread, these tick marks should be nearly invisible. 
 
Step 8: Press the hem flat so that there are no puckers or creases, and you're done!
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Meg is nonprofit nerd who sews and knits on the nights and weekends because, as she likes to say, you can't wear a thesis! Along the way she's knit scarves in the Andes and sewed up dresses in Mexico City. She currently resides near San Francisco, CA, and you can find her at megmadethis.blogspot.com.

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