Handmaker's Factory

Index Card Tutorial - Blind Hem

Learning how to do a blind hem is a great skill-builder, and makes your garments look more professional and couture. They take a little bit of practice to get right, but with this tutorial you'll be finishing all your garments with blind hems in no time!


Step 1: Finish the raw edge of your hem using a zig-zag stitch or serger. Fold the hem up the desired length and press.
Step 2: This is the origami part of the tutorial: take the folded edge and fold it under the garment, towards the right side. Leave about 1/4" of the finished edge sticking out from under the fold you just made.
Step 3: From the wrong side, you should now be able to see a folded edge, and 1/4" of the top of the hemp peaking out from underneath the fold. press.
Step 4: Now, find your machine's blend hem stitch. The stitch is composed of both zig-zag stitches and straight stitches.
Step 5: Position your folded hem in your machine so that only the very point of the zig-zag stitch falls on the folded edge on the left. The straight stitches should fall only on the single layer on the right. 
Step 6: Stitch the hem using the blind hem stitch so that only the very point of the zig-zag stitch catches the folded edge, and the straight stitches remain on the single edge on the right. Be careful: sew too close to the folded edge and your seam will not open all the way; sew too far from the folded edge and your zig-zag stitches will not catch the folded edge. This takes some practice, and is what can make the blind hem a bit tricky.
Step 7: turning the garment to the right side, unfold the second fold. You should only see little tick marks of stitching on the right side (the tips of the zig-zag stitches). If using a matching thread, these tick marks should be nearly invisible. 
Step 8: Press the hem flat so that there are no puckers or creases, and you're done!
Meg is nonprofit nerd who sews and knits on the nights and weekends because, as she likes to say, you can't wear a thesis! Along the way she's knit scarves in the Andes and sewed up dresses in Mexico City. She currently resides near San Francisco, CA, and you can find her at megmadethis.blogspot.com.

Meg pic