Day Two - Fabric suggestions, layout, cutting your fabric and block fusing.
You will need a copy of The Carnaby Cape pattern.
The Carnaby Cape is perfect for the colder months of the year made up in a drapey medium to heavy weight wool. I designed the hem to be left raw so a felted wool is best as it won't unravel. Wool felt is highly resilient, wicks away water, is a renewable and environmentally friendly resource and is warm. You can find out more about wool felt here.
Other fabrics can be used too but may need finishing at the hem rather than leaving it raw. As long as the fabric has a nice drape and is of medium to heavy weight it should work fine. Wool will keep you warm but there are many blends out there that could work too. Deadlycraft used a ponti knit!
Check the chart on page 1 of the instructions to find out how much fabric you will need for your chosen size.
I have used 100% felted wool. Unfortunately the burgundy colour I have chosen is not easy to capture in photographs!
Before you start!
IMPORTANT!! Read through the instructions thoroughly BEFORE starting to avoid any unhappy accidents.
A 1.5cm seam allowance is included on all seams except the hem which is designed to be left raw. If you decide to use a non felted fabric you will need to finish your seams and hem somehow to avoid fraying. Options for the seams include bias binding (hong kong seam), overlocking or a zig zag stitch. For the hem options a hand sewn blankets stich, turned hem or bias binding could be used. Add a seam allowance if required.
Press all seams after each step.
You will need:
Supplies: Fabric, Matching thread, 2 x 2cm buttons, 20cm of fusible interfacing suitable for your fabric.
Tools: Sewing machine with a buttonhole attachment, measuring tape, pins, scissors.
First you will need to fold your fabric in half selvedge to selvedge. Then pin your front and back pattern pieces to the fold line as you see in the diagram below and cut out. Put the rest of your fabric aside for now.
Edit to add: If your fabric is 140cm wide (as mentioned in the fabric requirements) you should have enough space to accommodate your 20cm wide waistband tie between the pattern pieces and the selvedge. If for some reason you do not (eg. your fabric isn't 140cm wide) you will need to fold your fabric in a way that you will be able to cut a 170cm x 20cm strip from a single layer of fabric.
Using a fine piece of chalk or a chaco chalk liner mark the shoulder notch.
Then mark the waist tie opening by carefully cutting through the paper pattern and marking through the slit.
Remove the pattern pieces from the fabric. Keeping the pieces folded push a pin in each end of the waist tie chalk mark, though to the other side and turn the fabric over.
Mark between the needles using a ruler. Do this to the front and back of the cape. Remove the pins.
Iron on interfacing can cause your fabric to shrink so we recommend block fusing. Start by cutting a piece of fabric big enough for the neck facing pattern pieces from a single layer of your leftover fabric.
Next, cut some fusible interfacing slightly smaller than your main fabric piece. Smooth out the wrinkles and press in place (on the wrong side of your fabric) using a hot iron, steam and pressure. Do not push the iron around the fabric, use more of a press and hold method over the whole piece. Once your fabric is cool you can cut your pattern pieces.
From a single layer of the leftover fabric you will also need to cut the button band pattern piece, a 170cm x 20cm piece for the waist tie and 8 10cm x 6cm rectangles for the bound waist tie opening welts (which should also be block fused first).
You should have the following pattern pieces cut from your fabric:
- 1 front
- 1 back
- 1 button band
- 1 front neckline facing (block fused)
- 1 back neckline facing (block fused)
- 1 170cm x 20cm waist tie
- 8 10cm x 6cm rectangle welts (block fused)
Tomorrow we will be sewing the shoulder seams and neck facings.